Wining, Dining, Nightlife
 The Taster's Choice

The Iceland Tourist Board recently conducted a survey among American travelers to Iceland, in which they were asked what they thought of the country�s culinary offerings. Happily, the vast majority found that the quality of dining in Iceland was simply exceptional, and an excellent value for the money.

Not that this comes as any surprise to the locals, or to anyone who has tried Iceland�s culinary delights. Most would have to agree that Icelandic ingredients are among the very best in the world. Pristine nature, clean water and an unpolluted atmosphere see to that. In addition, top Icelandic chefs are in a league of their own. Trained abroad, they have learned to combine the best that Icelandic nature has to offer with the world�s top culinary traditions. Many have collected international awards for their unique and innovative use of Iceland�s exquisite raw ingredients � with Icelandic seafood drawn fresh from the ocean daily surely topping the list. In addition to the more common types of fish such as cod and halibut, usually prepared in unique ways, more exotic types of fish such as starry ray, monkfish, and plaice grace the menus of a number of restaurants.

Iceland is surely one of the very best places in the world for raw seafood delicacies. In recent months one fine restaurant specializing in sushi, Tveir Fiskar, has opened in Reykjavik; others, like the splendidly designed Apotek, have added sushi to their menus; and major supermarkets and specialty stores now stock sushi fresh on a regular basis.

But let us turn now to Icelandic lamb, which roams wild and feeds on heather, herbs and grasses throughout the summer. It is exquisite � unfailingly delicious, with a taste reminiscent of game. And it is all natural and free of hormones, as are virtually all of Iceland�s meat products � something, which, alas, is increasingly rare throughout the world. Most, if not all, Icelandic restaurants offer lamb on their menus, prepared in any number of delectable ways.

Game is also a ubiquitous offering on restaurant menus. Reindeer, ptarmigan, wild duck, and goose � a sampling of those is widely available, when in season, as are puffin, guillemot and other sea birds.

Charm, style, and fantastic cuisine may be found at Vid Tjornina, Thrir Frakkar, The Pearl, La Primavera, Siggi Hall at Odinsve, and Laekjarbrekka. Yet this list, it should be noted, is by no means exhaustive.

In the past few years, a number of ethnic restaurants have established themselves in Reykjavik. These have adapted Iceland�s choice ingredients to their own culinary traditions: Italian, Mexican, Chinese, Thai, Indian, and others. In addition to vegetarian offerings on the menus of many �regular� restaurants, two restaurants in downtown Reykjavik specialize in vegetarian cuisine. Even the fast-food area in the Kringlan mall has a vegetarian section.

A few points worth noting: There is usually not a great difference between the highest and lowest restaurant prices in Iceland, meaning that the top restaurants need not be substantially higher in price than the others. Also, prices on the menu always include all taxes and gratuities. And while most places are fairly relaxed about dress codes, you might feel more comfortable dressing up when going to top-quality restaurants in the evening. And another thing: If you have finished your meal and find that you are still hungry � ask for seconds! Most restaurants will happily comply. Finally, it is strongly suggested that you make dinner reservations. Many places are quick to fill up.

Caf�s and coffee shops usually offer light meals throughout the day, served in a relaxed and often cultured atmosphere, with art exhibits gracing the walls.

Many American fast-food chains are represented in Iceland. Suffice it to mention MacDonald�s, KFC, Pizza Hut, Subway, Domino�s Pizza and Ruby Tuesday. And while on the subject of fast food, Icelanders have their own special favorite: the �Baejarins bestu� hot dog stand, located at the corner of the streets Posthusstraeti and Tryggvagata. People have been lining up there for delectable, secret-recipe hot dogs every day for decades!

Another example of a popular American restaurant chain in Iceland is The Hard Rock Caf�, located in the Kringlan mall. Hard Rock�s �Reykjavik� T-shirts are reportedly a coveted item!

As a rule, lunch is served at most restaurants between 12 and 2 p.m., while dinner is served between 7 and 10:30 p.m. Do keep in mind, however, that this is by no means a rigid rule, and if in doubt, simply phone and ask, English is spoken in most places. Caf�s and coffee shops usually offer light meals throughout the day, served in a relaxed and often cultured atmosphere, with art exhibitions gracing the walls. Also worth a mention are the wonderful bakeries that may be found all over Reykjavik. In addition to breads, they offer a excellent variety of cakes and other sweets. One, Hja Joa Fel, is a super success story: it has recently expanded its popular bakery to include choice meats, cold cuts, cheeses and the like � transforming it from a humble bake shop to a chic delicatessen without the least compromise on quality.

Now on to food that is uniquely and exquisitely Icelandic and can be purchased in just about any supermarket.

Various seafood products are sold vacuum-packed: delicacies such as smoked salmon, smoked trout, or gravlax (dill-cured salmon). These are, of course, particularly convenient for you to take back home. Icelandic lobster and shrimp are exquisite, herring is prepared and sold in countless ways, and lumpfish caviar tweaks the taste buds as it melts on the tongue.

Tourists should definitely not let the experience of hardfiskur � dried haddock, cod or ocean catfish � pass them by. It does smell a bit, well, pungent, but most people agree that it tastes delicious, especially when eaten with butter.

Speaking of dairy products � Iceland has a diverse selection of cheeses, all renowned for their quality and taste. And no sampling of dairy products would be complete without skyr, a traditional dish the Icelandic nation has enjoyed for centuries. In flavor and consistency it is somewhat of a cross between yogurt and cream cheese, and it can be purchased plain or flavored, traditional or with cream. Many Icelandic agricultural products are farmed organically and in fact the use of various additives and agents has traditionally been avoided.

Finally, for those daring enough to try such exotic foods as cured shark or soured ram�s testicles (when in season!), the food section of the Kolaportid Market would be the place to check out.

 Coolville, Planet Earth  

Some foreign visitors, especially those with money to spend, not uncommonly fly over to Reykjavik for the weekend � just to embrace the night. In fact, one British pop star was so taken with the action that he purchased a share in his favorite Reykjavik pub � and an apartment nearby! Fashionable international publications send their writers and photographers over to document the action, and get back elaborate stories about the bizarre, the colorful, the profound � and sometimes the profane. Indeed, night is when Reykjavik residents are at their most colorful and festive. In the evening, the downtown area teems with activity, reaching its peak on Friday or Saturday. The number of pubs, caf�s, discos, and other night-spots in the downtown area is astonishing � as though just about every other door led into a hopping, throbbing, pulsating hub of activity.

There is a rich variety of places to go: European-style cafes, chic bars for dancing and people-watching, nightclubs with live entertainment, discos, dance halls for seniors, alternative-lifestyle clubs, sports-theme pubs with big TV screens, cafes that offer over 100 types of beer, civilized hotel bars, strip joints, romantic piano lounges, an Irish pub, a Spanish cafe, a French wine bar ... yes, the list could go on. New places, it seems, open every week � each trying to outdo the other in terms of innovation and chic.

As for opening hours, most places close around 1 a.m. on weekdays, 4 a.m. on weekends, though some stay open longer. Nightclubs and discos are usually open only on Friday and Saturday nights and many have dress codes and modest cover charges. The dress code tends to be �no jeans�. For live entertainment, check the Friday or Saturday issues of newspapers for the most up-to-date listings.

After closing time, particularly in the summer, the downtown area takes on a carnival-like atmosphere. On a good night, a crowd 5,000-strong is not an anomaly, while on a less-than-good night that number is not likely to be significantly smaller. For the Icelanders, especially in the perpetual daylight of summer, the night is always young.